50 Non-Textbook Anchors I Trusted My Life To

First we learn the rules, then we learn how to properly break them. Bomber anchors should take less than 60 seconds to construct. Learn how in this course.

Want To Climb Bigger Routes:

  • Reduce anchor building time to less than one minute
  • Make bomber anchors in a host of situations
  • Read the terrain and make anchors that are "strong enough"
  • Build anchors fast enough that you can change your strategy while on Grade IV, Grade V and Grade VI routes (big boys)

If Yes, Then This Course Is Built For You:

  • 50+ real-life anchors discussed
  • What, where, why, and how an IFMGA Mountain Guide solves anchor problems
  • Expand your anchor 'tool box' for more situations the mountains can throw your way
  • Replace novelty of building a rock anchor, with the nuance of building the best anchor for a given situation

Easy To Complete

In less than two hours, you will have what you need to know.

Forever Access

No subscriptions. No time limits. Reference this course forever.

One Of A Kind Course

This unique course tackles the avalanche problems with real case studies.

What sets this course apart?

  • Get educated on your schedule.
  • Access future updates for free.
  • Ask direct questions to Mark Smiley throughout.
  • Safe learning environment. Be bold with your questions.

Video Curriculum

Welcome To The Course

Introduction - 1:45


1) It's What's On The Inside That Counts - 18:59
2) Seven Slick Ways To Rig Bolted Anchors - 5:39
3) Three "What IF" Situations - 1:58
4) Piton Craft - 7:32

Webbing, Cord, & Knots

5) Nylon or Dyneema? - 3:33
6) Great Knots To Know - 2:19

Anchor Foundations

7) Build A Textbook Anchor - 4:56
8) The Evolving Role Of An Anchor - 3:05
9) Three Point Anchors - 9:11

Two Point Anchors

10) Two Point Gear Anchors - 1:30
11) Real World Examples - 9:16
12) Intro to Alpine Anchors - 1:16
13) Alpine Anchors - 8:11
14) Two Important Considerations - 1:23

One Point Anchors

15) Big Honkin' Tree - 1:49
16) Horny Anchors - 7:33
17) Pinch Anchors - 1:00
18) Butt Belay Anchor - 1:15
19) Desperate Anchors - 2:00
20) Don't Try This At Home - 3:08
21) One Piece Rappels...barf! - 3:52

Bail Anchors

22) Legit Bail Anchors - 9:08
23) Second Piece Purchase Offer - 2:16

Trash Anchor Clean Up

24) Rat's Nests Suck - 5:16

25) Upgrading Anchor With Forged Rappel Rings - 5:42
26) Fun Belay Turnover Game - 1:00
27) Head Knowledge vs Experienced Application - 3:23

Enroll Here

Digital Avalanche Course

Digital course on your own pace
  • Complete the course on your schedule. Use the video lessons as a reference for future refreshing.
  • You can ask Mark Smiley direct questions throughout.
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Frequently Asked Questions

How long do I have access to the course?

Forever - across any devices you own.

Can I ask Mark Smiley questions throughout the course?

Yes. Every video has a place where you can write in questions, and Mark will reply personally.

Is a refund an option?

All courses have a 365 day money back guarantee.

Meet your instructor
Mark Smiley

Mark Smiley's passion for adventure has taken him on 30+ expeditions on five continents. He and his wife, Janelle, are the only people that have attempted to climb all 50 Classic Climbs of North America (48 successfully). He was part of a team to set a world record skiing across the entire Alps Mountain Range (1100 miles and 292,000 vertical feet) in a mere 36 days.

His teaching style is fun, mellow and easy to understand. As an IFMGA Certified Mountain Guide, Mark is among the world's elite guides to reach this status. More important than this certification, is his candid style of conveying to you the best techniques that will help you the most.

Victor Caldua was a friend and mountain guide and father who died in an avalanche while climbing Alpamayo, Peru. He left behind a wonderful wife, Alicia, and two amazing and talented daughters, Vanessa and Estefani. 10% of the profit from this course will be gifted to Victor's family for their education expenses. Vanesse wants to be an engineer and Estefani wants to be a mountain guide.

Sept 22, 2022 Update: $8500 sent to the family, to help with school expenses. We committed to supporting their needs indefinitely. As more people enroll, their education prospects increase.